A Fantasy New Year Cruise to Old Father Thames
A Fantasy New Year Cruise to Old Father Thames
By: Richard A.
On our last cruise the crew and the caskets were deeply moved by the appearance of Father Christmas as we emerged through the Coates portal of Sapperton tunnel. Led by Father Christmas we made our way into the Tunnel Inn where a festive meal was awaiting us. Fortified by much mulled wine we had to move on as Old Father Thames was calling us.
We returned to our boat and looked back to the portal. The niches on each side of the tunnel, empty for so long, were now occupied by statues of Madam Sabrina and Old Father Thames. A fitting tribute to the joining of the great rivers of England and the work of those organisations who worked tirelessly to make the once great Stroudwater and Thames & Severn Canals into the even greater Cotswold Canals.
The mention of tribute (as in beer) has got the crew and the caskets over excited and they all disappear back into the Tunnel Inn for a few more pints.
They finally stagger back to the boat and we continue our journey along the summit pound. We move off along the King’s Reach originally named after a visit by King George III in 1788. More recently King Charles III made a visit to rename this section of canal the Carolean Reach.
Passing under Tarlton Bridge we approach the second round house and the narrows where the lengthman, who lived with his family in the round house, could fit stop planks in the event of a serious leak in the canal. Just beyond is the the railway skew bridge – a marvel of the bricklayers skill.
The canal is now in a shallow cutting. We pass the now removed dam built by a naughty farmer many years ago. Soon we turn sharp right at Trewsbury Bridge and cruise towards Coatesfield quarry. The canal is full of boats waiting to be loaded with fine Cotswold stone.
Below the canal embankment is the source of the River Thames. Many years ago it was dry for most of the year as Swindon pumped all of the water out of the aquifer. Happily the springs now flow freely all of the year round.
This was not the real source of the river. Many years ago when the canal was abandoned, before the naughty farmer built a dam and there was a breach in the canal bank near here the source of the River Thames was winter water flowing out of Sapperton Tunnel, along the canal bed, through the breach and into the depression where the springs are. The crew and caskets were impressed to know this.
However, we have a problem. The crew are becoming thirsty and there is talk of mutiny. We arrive at Thames Head Wharf where a work party sets off to the Cirencester Brewery for more supplies. Returning fully laden mutiny is averted and we are able to continue our journey.
We pass the Thames head pumping station furiously pumping powered by its own micro-nuclear generating station. Soon we turn a corner and before us is Smerrill Aqueduct. Not the squat earth embankment of old but a new slender concrete channel stretching across the valley. The crew is very impressed.
As we progress we pass under two bridges. The first once carried the Cirencester branch of God’s Wonderful Railway but now it carries a brand new light railway. The second bridge is Halfway Bridge because it is halfway between Wallbridge and Inglesham. It is a typical canal bridge and was restored by volunteers back in the 1990’s.
On we go under Park Leaze Bridge in a cutting through woodland. The woodland ends but the cutting continues. Thankfully, no longer filled with body parts from the WWII American hospital in Cirencester. So it is alleged.
Sailing under Bluehouse Bridge the canal begins to make large sweeping curves as it follows the 365 foot contour of the land.
We arrive at Siddington Junction where we turn left for a quick trip to Cirencester Wharf for more stocks of ale. The wharf warehouse in Cirencester is unusual because it has storage sheds on each side of the main building. We shall see this building twice more on our journey.
We return to the junction and the end of the summit pound. The long gentle descent to Old Father Thames is about to begin. We begin to lock down the Siddington Flight of four. We note that locks still have double top gate recesses. We pass under the rail bridge of the Midland and Southwest Junction Railway and into the final lock which once had a house built on it!
On we go under Cowground Bridge, past the water meadows now being used once more for an early spring crop of grass and over the River Churn aqueduct to Claymeadow cutting.
Three more locks bring us close to South Cerney where the crew rush off to look for the Eliot Arms and the Old George. Fortified they return and we head for Boxwell Spring Lock.
This shallow lock was an afterthought in the canal construction to gain a water advantage from the Boxwell Springs. The lock was restored in the 1990’s by volunteers from all over the country using the infamous “Boxwell Blocks”.
Moving on we come to another site of volunteer activity. In the 1990’s again a thousand volunteers took part in “Dig ’95” to clear the canal bed and pave the way for the restoration of Wilmoreway Lower Lock. The Upper Lock and Lower Lock with its side pond are, of course, fully functional.
We stop at the Gateway cafe and Information Centre for a cup of coffee and cake. Time is pressing. We must get to Cerney Wick Lock, the roundhouse and, most importantly, the nearby Crown Inn.
Once again replete with ale we sail to Latton Junction where the crew want to sail down the North Wilts Canal to Swindon but the canal is choc a bloc with working boats and holiday makers on hire boats. We press on and pass under the dual carriageway road again built in the 1990’s after a successful campaign by volunteers. We pass the Cricklade canal warehouse – we could be back in Cirencester as it is identical.
Now we sail into lonely countryside for a couple of miles until we arrive at Eisey Lock cottage which is lived in by a family of canal enthusiasts. Eisey Lock and nearby Rucks Bridge were both beautifully restored many years ago. We cruise on but the crew are getting restless. Another mile or so goes by and the crew demand to stop at Marston Meysey round house. Here they all jump ship and sprint off to the Old Spotted Cow in the village. They return some hours later but they are staggering rather than sprinting. I wonder why?
After the crew have had a nap we press on towards Oatlands Bridge. This is a surreal experience as we are sailing above the surrounding fields with an embankment on both sides. At Oatlands Bridge the caskets want to see bricks on the bridge marked with the name of the brick company – “Stonehouse Brick Company”. The crew are having another nap.
Very soon we moor at Kempsford wharf where the crew wake up and decide to visit the George and the Axe and Compass. Kempsford wharf has a warehouse identical to those at Cricklade and Cirencester.
But Old Father Thames still beckons so we sail on to Dudgrove Double Lock passing Dudgrove marina on the way. We lock down and soon we are at Inglesham Lock.
Inglesham Lock was restored by volunteers a long time ago. It is in beautiful setting with the final roundhouse and next door warehouse now owned by the Cotswold Canals Trust and rented out as holiday homes for retired volunteers.
It is New Years Eve as we lock down into the river.
Our fantasy cruise draws to a close and we are greeted by Old Father Thames himself. The crew plan to celebrate in the Crown Inn, the New Inn Hotel and the Swan Inn after crossing the new towpath bridge over the river and a brisk walk along the river bank to Lechlade.
The caskets have fulfilled their last wish and before our very eyes they slowly vanish from sight as they make their way to the great lock chamber in the sky.
Old Father Thames is joined Old Father Time. But who is that appearing out of the ether? Why it is Madam Sabrina.
Together with us – the crew, they wish everyone a
Happy New Year!
Whatever year that might be…..
The trilogy comes to an end.
